Technical · April 4, 2026 · 14 min read
Jersey or poplin? Interlock or oxford? The choice of fabric is the first technical decision in a children's collection—and the one with the greatest impact on the final quality. Here is a complete technical guide to making the right choice based on the product, season, and your brand's positioning.
All textile fabrics fall into two fundamental families. Knit fabric is produced by knitting: yarns are interlaced in loops, which gives the fabric its natural stretch. Woven fabric is produced by weaving: warp yarns (vertical) intersect with weft yarns (horizontal), creating a more stable and structured fabric.
| Criterion | Knit | Woven |
|---|---|---|
| Process | Knitting | Weaving |
| Stretch | Natural, high | Low (unless elastane is added) |
| Body/Structure | Soft, drapey | Stiff, crisp |
| Wrinkling | Resistant | Variable |
| Main Use | Everyday, comfort | Formal, occasionwear |
Knit is the natural choice for children's everyday clothing. Its stretch makes dressing easier (crucial for ages 0-3), its softness is suitable for sensitive skin, and its flexibility accommodates movement.
Common types in children's fashion:
Woven fabric is favored for formal pieces and ceremonial wear. Its impeccable structure allows for clean cuts, sharp pleats, and precise embroidery. This is a specialty of LOI Confection.
| Product | Recommended Fabric | Weight (gsm) | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| Baby bodysuit | Jersey / Interlock | 140-240 gsm | Stretch, softness |
| Ceremonial dress | Poplin / Satin | 100-130 gsm | Structure, crisp embroidery |
| Children's trousers | Gabardine / Twill | 200-280 gsm | Resistance, durability |
| Pajamas | Jersey / Light fleece | 140-250 gsm | Comfort, thermoregulation |
| Dress shirt | Poplin / Oxford | 100-180 gsm | Structured collar and cuffs |
| Sleeping bag | Double gauze / Interlock | 100-240 gsm | Breathability, safety |
Fabric weight (gsm) measures the weight of the fabric per square meter. It is a key indicator for seasonality and comfort. For summer baby clothes, aim for 100-160 gsm. For winter, 200-300 gsm. A weight that is too high makes the garment heavy and uncomfortable for little ones; too low, and it lacks durability. At LOI Confection, the technical team recommends the optimal weight for each product.
The choice of fabric directly impacts the manufacturing process:
LOI Confection stands out for its ability to work with both fabric families with the same high standards. The 19 production lines are configurable, with specific machine settings. The hand embroidery workshop particularly excels with woven fabrics, where the stability of the base material allows for exceptionally fine 'broderie anglaise'.
Knit fabric is produced by knitting (yarns interlaced in loops), which gives it natural stretch. Woven fabric is produced by weaving (vertical yarns intersect with horizontal yarns), creating a more stable and structured fabric. The choice depends on the product: knit for everyday comfort, woven for formal pieces.
Single jersey is not ideal for ceremonial wear because it lacks structure. For ceremonial dresses, prefer poplin or satin (woven fabrics), which allow for sharp pleats and precision embroidery. Interlock (a knit fabric) can be suitable for semi-formal pieces.
Yes. The 19 production lines are configurable for both knit and woven fabrics, with specific machine settings for each type. LOI Confection built its initial expertise on woven fabrics since 2009 and later expanded its know-how to include knit fabrics.
Both families can be eco-friendly if the cotton is GOTS certified. The environmental impact depends more on the material's certification than on the weaving or knitting method. At LOI Confection, both types are available in GOTS-certified versions.
For a summer baby bodysuit, choose a 140-160 gsm jersey. For winter, a 200-240 gsm interlock provides more warmth. The weight directly influences the comfort, durability, and seasonality of the garment.